A Romantic Overland Escape to Lake Como’s Eastern Shore
Lake Como's eastern shore offers steep Alpine slopes plunging straight into shimmering waters, terracotta-roofed villages linked by lakeside paths, and botanical villa gardens without the intense tour-bus bottlenecks of the western road. Because the main rail line from Milan runs directly along this coast through Lecco, Mandello, and Varenna, it is effortlessly accessible by scenic train from the Netherlands, making it ideal for a flight-free romantic getaway.
Cuándo ir
Mid-April through June and September to mid-October offer warm sunshine, blooming gardens, and pleasant swimming or walking temperatures. Avoid late November through February when ferry schedules thin dramatically and major villa gardens close, and skip peak August if you want to dodge high humidity and dense midsummer crowds.
Overview
Lake Como’s eastern shore combines dramatic Grigna mountain backdrops with relaxed village charm. Centred around the pastel-hued village of Varenna, this side of the lake features historic botanical gardens, lakeside promenades, and the Sentiero del Viandante hiking trail. Reaching this stretch entirely by rail avoids traffic jams and parking headaches, setting an unhurried, romantic tone for the weekend.
Getting There
- Route: Take the ÖBB Nightjet sleeper train from Amsterdam Centraal or Utrecht Centraal directly to Zurich HB (approx. 11.5 hours overnight). From Zurich, take a direct EuroCity train through the Gotthard Base Tunnel to Milano Centrale (3 hours 15 minutes). At Milano Centrale, change to the direct Trenord regional train heading toward Tirano/Sondrio, which runs up the eastern shoreline and stops in Lecco, Mandello del Lario, and Varenna-Esino (1 hour 4 minutes).
- Total Travel Time: Around 15 to 16 hours total, leaving the Netherlands in the evening and arriving lakeside by mid-morning.
- Alternative Daytime Option: ICE from Amsterdam/Utrecht to Basel SBB (approx. 6.5 hours), SBB train to Milan (4 hours), then the Trenord train to Varenna (1 hour).
Day-by-day
Day 1: Arrival, Villa Monastero & Sunset Aperitivo
- Arrive at Varenna-Esino railway station late morning and drop your luggage at your accommodation.
- Stroll along the Passerella degli Innamorati (Lover's Walk), a cantilevered red path clinging to the cliffs above the water, leading into the old harbour (Riva Grande).
- Enjoy a relaxed lunch of fresh lake fish (missoltini or perch risotto) at a waterside trattoria.
- Spend the afternoon exploring the terraced gardens and museum of Villa Monastero, stretching over a kilometre along the shoreline with rare botanical species, classical statues, and lake panoramas.
- Head up to the main piazza for evening aperitivi and dine by candlelit lakefront terraces.
Day 2: Castle Views, Fiumelatte & Bellagio Ferry
- Start the morning with an uphill walk to Castello di Vezio, perched above Varenna, to explore the ancient tower, view bird-of-prey demonstrations, and take in 360-degree views of the lake's central intersection.
- Descend and take a scenic walk south to Fiumelatte, home to one of Italy's shortest rivers, flowing milk-white down the hillside.
- In the afternoon, hop on the passenger ferry across the central lake basin (15 minutes) for a romantic walk through Bellagio or Villa Melzi gardens, returning to the eastern shore before dusk.
- Conclude with dinner in a vaulted wine bar or rustic osteria tucked into Varenna’s steep stone alleys (contrade).
Day 3: Scenic Walk & Homeward Journey
- Enjoy an early espresso and brioche at the waterfront while watching the morning mist lift off the peaks.
- Take a short morning hike along a gentle section of the Sentiero del Viandante path toward Bellano, or visit Bellano's dramatic gorge (Orrido di Bellano), just a 4-minute train ride north.
- Catch a lunchtime Trenord train back to Milano Centrale, connect via EuroCity to Zurich or Basel, and board the evening Nightjet back to the Netherlands.
Where to Stay
- Varenna Old Town: Ideal for staying in the heart of the action, close to the ferry dock, quaint stairways, and intimate restaurants.
- Fiumelatte / Olivedo: Quieter residential areas within walking distance of central Varenna, offering peaceful waterfront villas and boutique guesthouses.
- Mandello del Lario / Abbadia Lariana: Laid-back lakeside towns just south along the train line, providing wide pebble beaches, traditional trattorias, and fewer crowds.
Budget
(Estimated per couple)
- Train Travel: €320–€550 total for two (round-trip, including Nightjet couchette/sleeper reservations, EuroCity, and regional tickets booked in advance).
- Accommodation: €180–€300 per night for a charming lakeside hotel or guesthouse.
- Food & Drinks: €100–€160 per day for sit-down dinners, lunches, wine, and daily coffee/gelato.
- Activities & Ferries: €50–€80 total (entry tickets for Villa Monastero, Castello di Vezio, Orrido di Bellano, and mid-lake ferry passes).
Know Before You Go
- Train Tickets: Buy Trenord tickets before boarding and validate regional paper tickets at the green/yellow station machines, or ensure digital check-in is activated via the app.
- Ferry Logistics: Mid-lake passenger ferries run frequently between Varenna, Menaggio, and Bellagio; buy return tickets at the Varenna ticket window early to avoid queues.
- Footwear: The eastern villages are filled with steep cobblestone ramps and uneven steps; pack comfortable walking shoes or sneakers.
- Luggage: Varenna-Esino station has limited porter services and steep steps; travel light since you will carry your bags up cobbled alleys.
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